Lime paint brushes (plafone) are the essential tools for lime paint applications.

They may seem too big, but after the first time you use them you will never do without them again.

PRIME YOUR BRUSH: Before you begin your lime paint project, submerge the brush in a pail of water, shake the brush until all the free water has dripped out. This will help keep the lime paint from drying out towards the heel of the brush. Never whip the brisles against any hard objects as this will damage the bristles.

SATURATE YOUR SUBSTRATE:  (say that three times really really fast!)

It is crucial that the substrate of your painting project is kept humid for several reasons:

• It allows the lime paint to cure and carbonate slowly and not "burn" by drying too quicky.

If the paint dries too quickly it will turn out weaker and more likely to dust when rubbed against.

• Allows for more open time to complete the selected area without painting over dried edges. 

Painting over dried edges or "feathering" over dry areas will leave a noticeable and unsightly spot.

It is critical to soak the substrate TO SATURATION. Test a small area by spraying water on a spot and wait one minute or so, spray again, does it change in color? does the water just disappear? if it does it is not saturated. spray it again then wait a few minutes then spray it again until it is saturated, meaning that it will not draw water in anymore. 

For very porous substrate it is advisable to soak the substrate with a hose as described above, a day in advance and spray again just before the paint application. 

MOIST BUT NOT WET: There should not be any visible water present on the surface when you begin painting. Spray or mist the entire area and wait a little while before you start painting.

MAKE LIME WATER: Spaying the substrate with "lime water" instead of tap water has many benefits. Lime water contains free lime in a solubile form. This lime rich water will penetrate deep into the substrate and deposit the free lime as it evaporates improving a weak substrate.

This also works works well for antique soft "powdery" brick. It is a technique also used on historic fresco restoration in Italy.

I use lime water to soak all my restoration work. A quality sprayer with a good nozzle is a must.

To make lime water: simply put about a 1/2 gal of lime putty in a 5g pail and mix until it is all dissolved, cover with a tight lid and wait 24 hours or until all the lime has settled at the bottom and the water is CRYSTAL CLEAR. Carefully siphon out your lime water without disturbing the bottom, replace with more water and stir for your next batch. If you do not cover the bucket well or don't harvest the lime water right away, a very thin clear "crust" will form on top of the water which will shatter and sink to the touch. This layer is pure calcium carbonate, aka limestone. Harvest ONLY the clear water for spraying.  

DEVELOP A PLAN: Select a "wall"  or "panel" to be painted and make sure the substrate is properly moistened but not wet. Starting from the top work from side to side, moving downward until the entire area is completed. Lime paint dries quickly and going over a dried edge or touching up a spot will inevitably leave an unsightly overlap. Never stop half way through a wall or touch up missed areas on your final coat. Apply alternate coatshorizontally and vertically making sure the last coat is applied vertically. Wait 24 hours between coats. 

 A large brush will enable you to move quickly and avoid the "dry edge issue". For large areas you will need a good plan of action or additional help to complete the selected area in time.

PROTECT YOUR WORK: Time of year, temperature, rain, sun exposure and wind also play a role on how fast your lime paint job will dry and cure and how well it will turn out overall. It may be necessary to protect your job with tarps or burlap to keep the sun and wind at bay or choose a time of day when the sun is not hitting the substrate, like early mornings or late afternoons.

Spring and fall are ideal times of year for lime paint application. 

Apply lime paint well before freezing temperatures arrive. 

GO SLOW: Lime paint is very liquid and these brushes are designed specifically to hold a lot of liquids with minimal dripping. Never dip your brush in lime paint more then half way down the bristles, start with 1/4 of the way in, then shake it gently once or twice over the bucket or give it two gentle "slaps" on either side of the bucket walls. Slowly raise the brush to the wall and start spreading the lime paint (move slowly) going over the same area two or three times. Moving slowly allows the paint to be drawn from the center of the brush toward the tip of the bristles and onto the surface. 

MIX THE PAINT: Lime paint settles quickly and must be mixed constantly. Keep a sirring stick into your paint bucket and stirr the paint often. If you don't you will end up applying unevenly diluted paint, too thin at the beginning and too thick at the end.

KEEP YOUR BRUSH DOWN: Always hold your brush in a "bristles down" position (not up) while you are not appling paint to prevent paint migrating toward the heel of the brush. If paint starts dripping from the heel of your brush, stop, shake your brush several times in order to fully unload the lime paint from it, start again by loading the brush with less paint. 

As you get used to it, you will pick up rithm and speed without painting the whole neighborhood and yourself in the process!

Be prepared to make a mess when painting a ceiling.

KEEP YOUR BRUSH CLEAN: Stop and wash your brush every two hours or as necessary. Lunch brake is a good time to wash your brush. The brush will perform better when clean and it is a lot faster and easier to clean it a few times a day.

Also, the globs of paint drying up on the sides of the brush will inevitably end up on your freshly painted surface. (not good)

At day's end wash the brush well with warm water (possibly) using your hands to gently move the bristles around while submerged in a bucket of water. Try to avoid plunging the brush to the bottom of the bucket as this may kink and weaken the long bristles. Do not hit the bristles against anything hard as doing so also will weaken, kink or brake off the bristles. Shake the excess water from your brush and hang it up side down by the hole on the handle.

TAKE CARE OF YOUR BRUSH: At the end of the job you can additionally wash your brush with a mild soap. I use linseed oil soap or Marseille olive oil soap which will not dry out the bristles and keep them soft and supple, ready for the next job. Always store your brush hanging upside down on a nail or hook throug the hole in the handle. do not store the brush for any amount of time in a bucket, tool box or with the bristles bend or you may run the risk of bending the bristles permanently.

These brushes will last a long time however the bristles will wear down especially when used on rough and coarse surfaces.

Once your brush is no longer suitable for smooth surfaces it will still work well for coarse surfaces. 

After your brush is too worn out for lime painting you can still use it for wetting or dusting your substrates, applying slurries, etc...